Important

You will need to buy a NEW harness and collar, even if your dog already has them for other classes outside of nosework. I completely understand the investment. Price was a leading factor in product selection, without sacrificing quality or function (THREE of us searched endlessly for weeks so you would get balance).

The equipment you choose can mean the difference between a productive class and not. If you deviate from this *exact* list, your training will be affected. Substitutions for these exact products are extremely unlikely to be made unless 1) your dog has serious medical or behavioral needs. 2) your dog has size restrictions (some toy breeds & some giant breeds might not quite fit some equipment). 3) handler-specific needs. Please contact Barbara immediately if you need an exception so we can find the right fit!

 

Bring your supplies with you to class, but do NOT have them on your dog. Your dog should come in wearing what they would normally wear into the facility (collar, harness, halti, gentle leader, corrective collar, etc). If your dog has used a prong collar in the last couple of months, even if they don't normally wear it into the facility, bring it with.

Required Detection Supplies

Collar

The importance of this exact collar:

  1. It's at least 1-1/2" - 2" wide.
  2. It clips closed instead of buckling closed (click each type for an example).
  3. No rhinestones, spikes, or other decorations that protrude from the collar.
  4. No handles, not even those that velcro down.

 

Contact Barbara for exceptions such as:

  • a toy breed dog that is too small for this collar (many toy breeds will fit this collar, so check).
  • a dog that is collar sensitive and unable to accept a collar of any kind.
  • a dog with a collapsed trachea or other medical reasons for not being able to accept a collar of any kind.

Harness

Your dog will need a nosework-specific harness. Absolutely NO exceptions will be made for harnesses that your dog has worn outside of structured nosework, even briefly. 

It is strongly recommended to buy ONE of the two of the harnesses recommended here.

While I like both of these harnesses, if I was forced to make a choice, it would be "The Company of Animals - Halti Walking Harness" because I don't like the bulk of the Hurtta (it can get caught on things, eliciting a fear response & serious fallout in nosework). Additionally,  I don't fully trust that the Hurtta can stop a dog from backing out of it if they really want to.

With that said, you can choose a different one as long as it meets these specifications:

  1. Your dog has NEVER worn it outside of nosework.
  2. The back of the harness has a handle that is easy to grip quickly- you will use it a LOT.
  3. The clip (where the leash attaches to the harness) is further down the back, rather than over the shoulders (click here for our general harness handout that references shoulder and back clips). 
  4. The dog's airway isn't pushed when the dog pulls into the harness.
  5. It has a "Y" shaped front (not a straight front- with the exception of comfort harnesses).

 

*While I do NOT recommend the following harnesses whatsoever (safety is usually the reason- but ask if you're curious!), but I will allow them for nosework only: ComfortFlex, Julious K9, PugLife, or other similar harnesses.

8' leash

You can use my leash if you don't want to get one.

THIS IS NOT PRIME. You can absolutely use mine if yours is late, too!

The importance of this leash (any color):

  1. It is 8 feet long.
  2. It does NOT have a handle.
  3. It is easy for you to grip (biothane is one of the best for grip, but other materials are allowed).
  4. It isn't heavy or have decorations that protrude from the leash.

Treats

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This is the ONLY class I recommend a hodgepodge of treats. It is strongly recommended to use a combination of 2 or more of the following: Hotdogs, Bacon (cubed no smaller than 1/2"), FreshPet ("strain" it in your fingers to remove the small pieces), Chicken/turkey/lamb/etc (*Meats, especially chicken, MUST be cubed BEFORE cooking or they will shred!).

With that said, you can choose a different one as long as it meets these specifications:

  1. THEY DO NOT CRUMBLE OR SHED PIECES (no "shreddings" of anything). 
  2. wet/moist foods, not "soft treats."
  3. they smell. Many people like to wear a small hand towel to wipe their hands on, while others don't care. There are also towels around the ring, but use at your own risk (covid).

 

Contact Barbara for exceptions such as:

  • very severe allergies.

Bear in mind, however, that nearly all dogs with diarrhea will adapt to more rich foods. 

Treat Bag

This treat bag is my STRONG preference. 

With that said, you can choose a different one as long as it has a clip. I will need to clip it to my belt while your dog is learning the foundation (before you take over).

It also doesn't have to be a treat bag-- you can handoff your vest for me to wear, but aprons or other things that need to be fitted to stay on won't work.

Clicker

YOU are going to want THIS clicker. You will have to grow 10 MORE hands to detection train. You need a clicker that's extremely easy to use!

With that said, you can choose a different one as long as it meets these specifications:

  1. it clicks.
  2. it doesn't scare your dog.

 

If your dog has a noise sensitivity we will use a click from a writing pen.