You will need to buy a NEW harness and collar, even if your dog already has them for other classes outside of nosework. I completely understand the investment. Price was a leading factor in product selection, without sacrificing quality or function (THREE of us searched endlessly for weeks so you would get balance).

The equipment you choose can mean the difference between a productive class and not. If you deviate from this *exact* list, your training will be affected. Substitutions for these exact products are extremely unlikely to be made unless 1) your dog has serious medical or behavioral needs. 2) your dog has size restrictions (some toy breeds & some giant breeds might not quite fit some equipment). 3) handler-specific needs. Please contact Barbara immediately if you need an exception so we can find the right fit!


Bring your supplies with you to class, but do NOT have them on your dog. Your dog should come in wearing what they would normally wear into the facility (collar, harness, halti, gentle leader, corrective collar, etc). If your dog has used a prong collar in the last couple of months, even if they don't normally wear it into the facility, bring it with.


  • Print a photo of your dog for your dog’s progress marker during class. I will bring a laminator next week for anyone that prints theirs on paper. We will laminate your number right in there too!


  • Fit your dog's collar and harness. They should be snug & barely allow you to fit 2 fingers under them. This MUST be a positive experience. If you have concerns about how your dog will accept them, contact Barbara


  • Condition your dog to PULL into the harness. It is imperative that your dog has a positive experience with this exercise. One person holds your dog back by holding the leash NO MORE than 3' from where it clips to the harness, and parallel to your dog's shoulders so they don't flip over. The other person encourages the dog to pull by luring away. Tips: It is very important that you don't go so fast that your dog comes off the lure. Also, be careful not to hold the dog back too much with the leash. It is important that they make continuous forward progress.


  • Get your dog used to the collar & how it feels to roll it around with the leash. This must be a positive experience. Take it slow. Start with just moving it a little, YES/click & reward.


  • Do NOT wear your dog out before class! Nosework is deceptively draining & we need energy going into it!

Required Detection Supplies


The importance of this exact collar:

  1. It's at least 1-1/2" - 2" wide.
  2. It clips closed instead of buckling closed (click each type for an example).
  3. No rhinestones, spikes, or other decorations that protrude from the collar.
  4. No handles, not even those that velcro down.


Contact Barbara for exceptions such as:

  • a toy breed dog that is too small for this collar (many toy breeds will fit this collar, so check).
  • a dog that is collar sensitive and unable to accept a collar of any kind.
  • a dog with a collapsed trachea or other medical reasons for not being able to accept a collar of any kind.


Your dog will need a nosework-specific harness. Absolutely NO exceptions will be made for harnesses that your dog has worn outside of structured nosework, even briefly. 

It is strongly recommended to buy ONE of the two of the harnesses recommended here.

While I like both of these harnesses, if I was forced to make a choice, it would be "The Company of Animals - Halti Walking Harness" because I don't like the bulk of the Hurtta (it can get caught on things, eliciting a fear response & serious fallout in nosework). Additionally,  I don't fully trust that the Hurtta can stop a dog from backing out of it if they really want to.

With that said, you can choose a different one as long as it meets these specifications:

  1. Your dog has NEVER worn it outside of nosework.
  2. The back of the harness has a handle that is easy to grip quickly- you will use it a LOT.
  3. The clip (where the leash attaches to the harness) is further down the back, rather than over the shoulders (click here for our general harness handout that references shoulder and back clips). 
  4. The dog's airway isn't pushed when the dog pulls into the harness.
  5. It has a "Y" shaped front (not a straight front- with the exception of comfort harnesses).


*While I do NOT recommend the following harnesses whatsoever (safety is usually the reason- but ask if you're curious!), but I will allow them for nosework only: ComfortFlex, Julious K9, PugLife, or other similar harnesses.

8' leash

You can use my leash if you don't want to get one.

THIS IS NOT PRIME. You can absolutely use mine if yours is late, too!

The importance of this leash (any color):

  1. It is 8 feet long.
  2. It does NOT have a handle.
  3. It is easy for you to grip (biothane is one of the best for grip, but other materials are allowed).
  4. It isn't heavy or have decorations that protrude from the leash.


This is the ONLY class I recommend a hodgepodge of treats. It is strongly recommended to use a combination of 2 or more of the following: Hotdogs, Bacon (cubed no smaller than 1/2"), FreshPet ("strain" it in your fingers to remove the small pieces), Chicken/turkey/lamb/etc (*Meats, especially chicken, MUST be cubed BEFORE cooking or they will shred!).

With that said, you can choose a different one as long as it meets these specifications:

  1. THEY DO NOT CRUMBLE OR SHED PIECES (no "shreddings" of anything). 
  2. wet/moist foods, not "soft treats."
  3. they smell. Many people like to wear a small hand towel to wipe their hands on, while others don't care. There are also towels around the ring, but use at your own risk (covid).


Contact Barbara for exceptions such as:

  • very severe allergies.

Bear in mind, however, that nearly all dogs with diarrhea will adapt to more rich foods. 

Treat Bag

You can choose a different one as long as it has a clip so you can remove it from your person and hand it to me so I can clip it onto myself easily & quickly.

It also doesn't have to be a treat bag-- you can handoff your vest for me to wear, but aprons or other things that need to be fitted to stay on won't work.


YOU are going to want THIS clicker. You will have to grow 10 MORE hands to detection train. You need a clicker that's extremely easy to use!

With that said, you can choose a different one as long as it meets these specifications:

  1. it clicks.
  2. it doesn't scare your dog.


If your dog has a noise sensitivity we will use a click from a writing pen.